With all the attention that has been lavished on the Nine Group twins (N9NE, Nove) and sushi house Kenichi, you almost wouldn’t know that Victory Tavern exists. But with veteran restaurateur Patrick Colombo (Ferre, Cru, Steel) at the helm, and even with a menu that’s still being fine-tuned, it remains the most practical dining option at Victory Park, with its casual bar and unfussy food.

Of course a place like Victory Tavern has a good burger. It comes with creamy, distinctive Muenster cheese on a broad bun, with shredded lettuce and tomato. Fish and chips, another classic choice, boasted a crunchy golden beer-battered crust, and the fries were thicker than fast food thus not as brittle, many with skins still on. As of July, the Tavern also offered salads with upscale flair, such as heirloom tomato with shaved onions and blue cheese—nice concept despite the too-firm tomatoes. Hopefully by September the kitchen will have figured out how to prepare the fried oysters appetizer so that it’s not overcooked.

What seemed surprising for a tavern was the fact that there were only four beers on tap. Points for Blue Moon and Stella Artois, but the list of wines by the glass was far deeper than beers on tap. Service was superb—almost too good for a tavern, and that’s an excellent complaint to have.

Get contact information for Victory Tavern.